Vintage Design, Contemporary Interpretation: Raymond Weil Millesime
Raymond Weil has been making waves in the watch industry with the launch and evolution of their stylish Millesime collection. Traditionally known for their luxury everyday watches at accessible prices, powered mainly by quartz movements, Raymond Weil, founded in 1976, has never been a major player among watch enthusiasts. However, with the collection’s shift towards mechanical watches, with the Freelancer and now the Millesime, there’s been a notable shift in perception. In this article, we take a deep dive into this award-winning collection, explore its DNA, and discover the new models launched at Watches & Wonders 2024, soon to be in store at Zelley.
Millesime: What’s it all About?
Unlike many watch brands that reach into their archives for historic designs to modernise, Raymond Weil, being a relatively young brand, has the freedom to design vintage-inspired watches from scratch. The name “Millésime” is the French word for vintage, reflecting the brand’s intention to create captivating designs that attract a new generation of consumers. The Millesime collection has indeed delivered, with the Millesime Small Seconds winning the 2023 Challenge Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève), often considered the Oscars of watchmaking. This achievement underscores its appeal, triumphing over competitors including Seiko and Nomos.
Millesime Design Codes and DNA: The Allure of the Sector Dial
The sector dial is a standout feature of the Millesime collection. Characterised by concentric circles that separate the minute track and the hours from the rest of the dial, a sector dial is both easy to read and visually striking. It evokes a vintage aesthetic reminiscent of Art Deco design. The Millesime collection debuted with six references: four with centre seconds and two with small seconds, displayed on a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock.
Millesime Small Seconds
The Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds features a 39.5mm diameter case, hitting a sweet spot for many enthusiasts. At just over 10mm thick, it combines classical design with significant wrist presence. The bezel is vertically brushed, while the rest of the case is polished, creating an elegant contrast. A box-shaped sapphire crystal protects the dial, enhancing its retro charm.
The dial showcases three textures: vertically brushed at the centre, smooth for the hours, and snailed (with concentric grooves) for the outer minute track. The brushed finish at the centre of the dial seamlessly transitions to the brushed bezel, adding a touch of sophistication. Despite the mix of textures and shapes, the dial remains legible and well-executed. The engraved crosshair, dividing the dial into quarters, adds depth, while the small seconds display at 6 o’clock, set within a neat, recessed circlet, enhances the overall design.
Two dial variations are available: Anthracite and Silver. While the Silver Dial option won the GPHG Challenge Watch Prize, both models exhibit the same meticulous attention to detail. The Millesime Small Seconds is powered by a Swiss Made RW4251 precision automatic movement. With a 38-hour power reserve, it’s visible through the exhibition caseback and features a signature “W-shaped” oscillating weight.
Millesime Men’s Automatic Small Seconds 39.5mm, Silver Dial
Millesime Men’s Automatic Small Seconds Watch 39.5mm, Anthracite Dial
Millesime Centre Seconds
Millesime Automatic Men’ s Centre Seconds, 39.mm with silver, blue, black and salmon sector dials
The four share the same 39.5mm stainless steel case as their Small Seconds counterpart, except for a silver dial version with a rose gold PVD case. Slightly slimmer at 9.25mm thick, these models offer four dial options: blue, black, silver and salmon pink. The hour and minute hands are lined with Super-LumiNova® for optimal legibility in low light.
Millesime Automatic Men’s Centre Seconds in Rose Gold PVD, Silver Sector Dial,
New Millesime Releases: 35mm Case, Moonphase and Chronograph
Raymond Weil did not disappoint at Geneva’s Watches & Wonders 2024, significantly expanding the Millesime collection. New colourways for the Small Seconds variant include Denim Blue and British Racing Green, with the blue dial on a blue calf leather strap and the green dial on a stainless-steel bracelet.
Millesime Automatic Small Seconds with Green & Blue Dials released at Watches & Wonders ‘24
Three new 35mm versions of the Centre Seconds, described as unisex, feature dial options in silver, blue, and rich burgundy.
Millesime Automatic Centre Seconds in new 35mm Case Diameter
The blue dial variant is set with over a quarter carat of lab-grown diamonds, providing a discreet sparkle.
Additionally, two new chronographs have been added to the Millesime collection. With the same 39.5mm case size, the chronographs and oversized pushers add a sportier feel to the vintage design. The white tachymeter scale on the midnight-blue dial version injects a dynamic element whilst the black dial variant has a bold, assertive look.
Millesime Automatic Chronograph 39.5mm in Black and Blue
The most intriguing addition is the moonphase complication, featured in four new models: two with a 35mm case and two at 39.5mm. Described as “poetic,” the moonphase displays an artistic moon with a human face, enhancing the vintage aesthetic. The 35mm versions are available in stainless steel or gold tone, with blue and silver dials using Arabic numerals. The 39.5mm models offer a contemporary tone-on-tone silver dial encased in stainless steel and a traditional rose gold PVD steel case with a deep midnight blue dial. These new models will be available from October 2024.
Millesime Automatic Moonphase 35mm & 39.5mm
Millesime Automatic Moonphase, 39.5mm Rose Gold PVD Case, Blue dial
Discover the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection at Zelley
At FJ Zelley we stock a comprehensive range of Raymond Weil Watches including the contemporary neo-vintage Millesime collection. View our Raymond Weil collection online or contact us to arrange a time to visit our beautiful Bishop’s Stortford store.
